Monday, May 11, 2015

New Makeup Update: It's Routine

My makeup routine has completely changed since my birthday makeover. I don't think I do a single thing the same, which can only be good, since I wasn't doing much of anything before. I took my list of products to Ulta and Sephora (and then back to both again) and read 1,000 reviews and purchased most of the things Amy used and changed up a few that she suggested I investigate on my own. I spent a lot of money, but it was my birthday present and I wanted to start fresh with a whole new makeup drawer, and many of the items, like the brushes, will last a very, very long time, and to my surprise (and joy), after nearly 3 months of daily use, even the products barely look dented.

from 0 brushes to many

At first all the steps were a little overwhelming and I didn't know enough to know if I could mix them up or skip any altogether. All I knew was that I loved Amy's final product and I didn't want to do anything that would make me look less than that. So I did all the things. I went from using 0 brushes to 10 and consulted my step list and pictures every morning for weeks. Now, I've got the steps. I've adapted my own order. I timed my full routine yesterday morning, from starting with a closed drawer and nothing out, to finished with everything put away, and without rushing it was 9 minutes, 46 seconds. I can probably shave another 90 seconds with more practice, but 10 minutes doesn't seem too bad.

work look

All the products now in my drawer

Here's my order, with my chosen products in parentheses:

Starting with eyes (they're the area you're most likely to mess up or play with color/technique, so it's easy to clean and start again without messing up whatever efforts you've put into the rest of your face if you do them first):

1. With a clean, moisturized, and now dry face, spread a light-colored cream shadow or eye shadow primer on your eyelids up to the brow bone using your cream shadow brush or a finger (Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Cream Shadow in Ballet Pink; Sephora Precision Cream Shadow brush #80).

2. Using small dashes and a sharpened pencil, apply a thin line of eye liner as close as possible to the lash line (Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Invasion (matte dark teal) or Roach (shinnery dark copper)).

3. Apply darker color of eyeshadow along lash line, directly on top of liner (Urban Decay shadow, usually Darkhorse, Gunmetal, or Smog with $1 ELF brush I love)

4. Without adding any additional shadow, use a short bristled brush to smudge the darker eye shadow up and into eye lid, angling up as you get to outside corner (Sephora Pro Smudge Brush #11)

5. Add all over eyeshadow color that coordinates with darker color (usually Half Baked, Naked, or Sin) and blend blend BLEND darker color into light and angle up in outer corners of eyes (ELF shadow brush and/or Sephora Pro Blending Brush #27)

6. Open eyes very wide and push black liquid eyeliner under lashline all the way across upper eyelid (Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner in Black Ink, with Sephora Pro Lash Fan Brush #34). This really makes the whites of your eyes pop. A literally eye-opening new technique for me that makes a big impact.

All the products, inside view

Face:

7. Foundation: wipe off any fallout from eyeshadow under eyes and apply foundation with light strokes moving out from center line (IT Cosmetics Your Skin But Better SPF 50 CC Cream in Light with IT Cosmetics Airbrush Blurring Foundation Brush #101). I love the IT CC Cream- half a pump on the back of my hand is enough for my whole face and I adore the brush. Sometimes I pet my face with it just because it feels so nice... which is probably really weird.

(Optional: dab on concealer under eyes, or anywhere else it's needed. I use IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Corrector under my eyes, applied with my ring finger, and it is amazing and only takes a tiny tiny bit, but have found the foundation covers so well I can usually skip what used to be an essential step.)

8. Bronzer: using an angled blush brush, brush bronzer across the hairline at the forehead and down the sides of the face, under the cheek bones, under the chin, and along the sides of the nose (NARS Laguna with ELF angled brush).

9. Blush: using smaller brush, fill in blush on apple of check blending at an angle up and straight out towards ear (NARS Orgasm; with Bare Minerals Tapered Blush Brush)

10. Setting Powder: Optional, but if you tend to get oily, press on or brush on a translucent setting powder over the T zone and anywhere else. (IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Pores Silk HD Anti-Aging Micro-Powder with IT Cosmetics Airbrush Powder Wand Brush #108). I usually skip this, but it's a great thing to add if you're going back out at night and need to freshen up your look.

Tools

- pause to get dressed without smudging mascara on my clothes, then finish -

10. Brows: this was one of the highest impact new steps for me. Other than basic shaping, I'd never done anything with my brows, believing they were too blonde to bother. But no, taking 10 seconds to brush on some Gimme Brow gives them such impact and color, while still being very subtle and natural on my fair skin. It's my new favorite step and one I keep even in my super abbreviated weekend look. (Benefit Gimme Brow in Medium; Amy also highly recommend the Anastasia dipbrow pomade, but the skill level required to use it was higher than I felt I could handle.)

11. Eye lash curler: also a huge effect. I have tiny stubby (terrible) eye lashes and curling them makes them visible even before mascara! (Shu Uemura curler; you have to order it online, but it's amazing and worth every penny because it doesn't pinch your eyelids at all, something I discovered all other curlers do before just finally ordering this one).

12. Mascara: I am still looking for the magical mascara that will give me the long, lush lashes of my dreams, but until then, I just like a big fluffy brush and the promise of volume. (Currently using ELF Volume Plumping Mascara, which was $3 at Target and works better than most other mascaras I've tried; I also like They're Real by Benefit and Tarte's Lights Camera Flashes.)

And done! It sounds long, but it really isn't, and I frequently skip the black eyeliner and fancier eye shadow work, but each step is so quick and adds so much, I usually just do it all and I like the result. I don't think it looks overly done (unless I've just gotten used to it already and don't see it... but it doesn't feel heavy) and depending on the eye colors you pick, you can make it very simple or very dramatic. I've also found that with the new products I use, my makeup really does last all day. This is me at 6:30 p.m. tonight, 11 hours after putting everything on:


The lighting isn't awesome, but everything stayed pretty well in place and I don't think I look like I'm 11 hours into makeup and heels after going to bed too late and about to start dinner for a toddler who is yelling at me very loudly from the other side of the bathroom. Though admittedly the makeup isn't doing much for that last part.


Having never worn liquid foundation before I was worried it would feel thick or heavy or make my skin look fake, but I think it looks pretty natural and it doesn't feel like I'm wearing anything at all. I absolutely love it and every morning am amazed that a tiny dot of product (less than half the size of a dime; so little!) can do so much.

The other part of the routine is getting it off. The upside is wearing foundation forces me to wash my face each night, something I should be doing as a responsible grown-up person, but often skipped. I struggled initially to find a product that could get everything off- particularly the liquid eyeliner, something that still sticks around long after I've tried to remove it, but I've found a system that does the job and makes my face feel great. First, if I want the quick version I use a Neutrogena makeup removing wipe (Costco had an awesome sale on these; before that, I used the Target brand which also worked well, though honestly not as well as the Neutrogena and usually I think Target brands are awesome), then Cetaphil daily facial cleanser on my skin with warm water, and then the other side of the makeup wipe to get the extra that fell beneath my eyes after the soaping. Then I moisturize with whatever sample I'm using up that week (currently Benefit's Instant Comback Facial Serum, which I am LOVING, but that's at least 50% because of the bottle and Clinique's Moisture Surge which I also love).

 
My other method is to use Dermologica's PreCleanse, then Cetaphil, then moisturize. My skin feels better when I do this, but it involves splashing my face with water twice and sometimes that is simply asking too much. But I adore the PreCleanse product and highly recommend it. I'll also dab it on a cotton ball to use directly on the eyelid to remove anything particularly stubborn.

I really am pleased with my new knowledge, though I still have lots more practicing to do. I might make having Amy and my other friend over to drink wine and play with makeup a yearly tradition. Who knows what kind of magic I could create by the time I'm 40 with more training and detailed drunken note taking! Cat eyes! Waterline work! Wearing lipstick!


There's always more to learn, which is part of what has made this new foray into the world of makeup so fun. There are few rules and you can blend away almost any error. This was very uncomfortable for me at first as I would prefer a color by number palette to be superimposed over my face, but like experimenting with non-auto camera settings, I'm trying to give myself the space to experiment. You can always wash your face and start again.

26 comments:

  1. That's a fantastic run down, it might even inspire to update my makeup bag beyond foundation and 10 year old eye shadow. ILove that blue dress!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yay thanks! After posting I wondered if anyone would find this interesting- I was so mired in makeup research for so long I may be skewed, and then it seemed a little silly to post a bunch of pictures with my eyes closer. And yes, there are so many fun new products out there! I highly recommend buying an hour of a makeup experts time in your own house or just boldly ask a million question of the experts at Sephora. Or both. Have fun!

      Delete
  2. Please explain how this works when you teach barre and then go straight to work. Do you bring it all with you? I am always struggling with the logistics of this in my own life. Maybe you have a magical secret??

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. My magical secret is living close enough to the studio and going hone to shower and change :). While I could go to work from barre before, I get way sweatier teaching and have to shower and our studio doesn't have one. If it did I would probably get clean and dressed and then do my makeup in my office after I've cooler down. And I'd probably bring it all with me. I could shave off a few steps and brushes, but it really isn't too terribly much to throw in a big and each step has a big impact.

      But mostly I'm glad can go home and decide!

      Delete
    2. Ah that is magical! Thanks for the clarification :)

      Delete
  3. Lovely! Makes me think I should pamper myself and get a lesson. Also, love the necklaces!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Revealing my complete make-up ignorance here - why both Ulta and Sephora? Do they carry different brands? Cater to different needs (skincare versus mascara, etc.)?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Different brands (most cross over, but IT and Dermoligica are only at Ulta; Bobbi Brown, Make Up For Ever, and Sephora's label are only at Sephora); different range of price points (Ulta also sells drugstore brands); different staff knowledge (I wanted recommendations and reviews from as many people as possible). You would do fine going to either but I enjoyed the different perspectives and recommendations provided at both!

      Delete
  5. As a long time reader/fan and super rare commenter, I just had to chime in regarding mascara! I am an independent presenter for Younique (I'm sure you get a gazillion Facebook "3D mascara party" invites). But our mascara is life changing. I'd be happy to send you one for free if you want to try it out! You can visit my website here:
    https://www.youniqueproducts.com/LarissaBoyle/products/view/US-1017-00#.VVJiqvldWSo

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm not a Younique presenter, but the mascara is ah-mazing. Definitely take her up on a free one! I use it, and am hooked.

      Delete
    2. Anon, I would love that! Can I contact you through the webpage you linked? I've heard such awesome things (and yes, received many a facebook invite), but hadn't tried it yet. Partly because I wasn't sure which mascara party to attend ;).

      Delete
  6. I just love It cosmetics. FYI - Their powder foundation is amazing for summer and those sweaty days.

    I am a makeup fanatic (I won't go into how much I have spent at both Ulta and Sephora.....) and have obsessively tried to find a great mascara so I wanted to let you know some recommendations. I tried They're Real by Benefit and wasn't that impressed. I love Lancome's Définicils mascara (but pricey) and MakeUp Forever's Smoky Extravagant is fabulous as well. I got both first as small samples in a Sephora sampler for Christmas two years ago, and I still haven't gone through all the mascara's in that sampler, worth every penny! Here is their current one, and looks like it has the Lancome one:
    http://www.sephora.com/lash-stash-to-go-P395729?skuId=1702414

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I also have MUFE's Smoky Extravagant. I do like the glossy color, but the brush isn't my favorite with the fat wand tapering quickly to a pointed end. It just feels hard to coat my lashes without the pointy end touching something I don't want mascara on. I blame my stubby lashes, as I do for all things. Lancome Definicils is on my "to try" list.

      Do you use a highlighter? IT has a great stick version of its highlighting creme powder and it looked AMAZING when the sales person put it on me, but I also think it's highly unlikely I'll regularly add one more step. I'm also not sure I could recreate the look she gave me, but man did my eyes pop and my skin look all dewy and glowing. Maybe next year?

      Delete
    2. It is a thick wand, so yeah if you have stubby lashes I can see how it would not be great. I really love the Lancome and used the sample until it was literally dried out.

      I do use highlighter, but not every day, mostly just for nights out or events. It's kind of just an extra step for me that I don't think is necessary for the daytime. I'm an attorney too so I try not to go too crazy haha. The balm's Cindy Loumanizer is my favorite bc its a little more subtle than super shimmery.

      Oh, and on the eyebrows I totally agree with you. Surprisingly I never did it before a few months ago and now I am obsessed. I do have the Anastasia brow pomade and it's fantastic. There is so much product I think it will last me a year. It's not too bad to learn either. But then again I learned by obsessively watching youtube videos on it......

      Delete
  7. Can you explain this step in a bit more detail: 6. Open eyes very wide and push black liquid eyeliner under lashline all the way across upper eyelid. Your eyeliner does look amazing, and I know it has a huge effect, but I can't seem to get it to look as nice as yours. Do you really go UNDER the lashline, or is that a typo? Just trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong here ;)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey Judith! I expanded my step 6 in today's post. But basically, yes, it's under the lash line and it is the secret to lined eyes that don't look heavy. Open yours eyes super wide like a crazy person and dab that liquid gel eyeliner with a flat edged brush up and along that line. It's weird at first, but then you realize you won't actually poke your eye and you get used to it :).

      Delete
    2. Oh wow, that's amazing! Thanks! And I see now from your pics that you don't see the black eyeliner when you close your eyes, which is nice. I'll have to get gel eyeliner and give it a try. I've so far been using black eyeshadow, which I apply with the flat fan brush (wet, so the eyeshadow glides on). Looks ok, but not as dramatic as yours, and it does seem to make my eyes smaller, which is a shame, since my eyes are my THING.

      Delete
  8. You look so pretty! What lip color are you wearing? It's a perfect color.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Connie! It's hard to say as I have a bunch of random lip colors I use, but I believe the color I'm wearing in the top pictures is Clinique Long Wear Lip Gloss in Braisin, which I just realized they no longer make. This is very sad because it was a beautifully shimmy pinky-brown-mauve-y color and now I have to go find another one. In the blue dress picture I'm wearing Nars lip pencil in Rikugien. It's a beautiful matte rose pink that I got as a free sample and I will definitely buy when it runs out. In the last green shirt picture I'm wearing the Sephora Ultra Shine Lip Gloss in Baby Doll pink. At $14 it isn't too pricey and I love the smooth, but not sticky feel.

      I'm realizing I have more lipsticks and lip glosses than the rest of my makeup combined and yet 99% of the time my lips are dry and naked. I need to commit to a select few and then get copies for my bags and desk. I really do look better with some color on my lips!

      Delete
  9. Loved this! And if you're ever looking for another great drugstore mascara, I adore Maybelline's Full n' Soft. I have bought many fancier brands over the years, but always go back to that one.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That has been my favorite for about 10 years. Every time I buy something else I end up back and Full 'n Soft. I think I finally need to accept that these are just my lashes and no mascara is going to make them double their length and triple their volume (or whatever they claim to do). I haven't replaced my last tube and I do really like the others I named (particularly the cheap ELF one), but Full 'N Soft has been my mainstay since high school and I may well find my way back.

      Delete
    2. Haha, too funny! Didn't realize you were already a Full n' Soft devotee. I think I have to finally accept the same things you do. ;)

      Delete
  10. Do you mind me asking how much all the make up and brushes cost? I'm trying to determine what the "damage" would be if I asked for a true makeover for my upcoming birthday. :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'd say the average cost of each piece is about $20. Some are more, some are less, but that was pretty much the average overall. Not too bad to replace over time, but it was a lot (about $200-300) to just go out and buy everything from scratch. And there are definitely lower cost, great options for each item. I just bought what the makeup artist used because I really liked it and I was tired of buying things and then not using them because they weren't the right color or style, etc. At least this time I would 100% use the product until it ran out, so I could view it as an investment. And so far that's been true- I haven't bought a single makeup item since I stocked up on this stuff 3 months ago, so really I'm saving money :).

      Delete
  11. I've been battling a recent obsession with makeup lately :) Love to watch Youtube videos reviewing and demonstrating products. I come home with a bag from Sephora and my husband just says "I don't even want to know". I too went from 0 to about 15 brushes in the span of a few months! Anyways a while back I started using the Urban Decay liners (love them!) and those things don't budge! I needed some super duper remover and bought some Clinique Take the Day Off Cleansing Balm. I tried wipes and other oil based removers but they always took to much rubbing and irritated my skin. The balm is amazing! It melts the makeup right off. It takes just a bit so the container lasts forever. Gently rub it on lids and lashes and rinse with water. You don't need to but, I usually follow with a cleanser too because I have acne prone skin. The balm is super gentle and never makes me eyes irritated. The other bonus is that when I travel, it's one less thing to worry about leaking in my bag!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I had that bookmarked in my Sephora account and now I just went ahead and ordered it (via Nordstrom, which has a Clinique bonus happening right now :). Can't wait to try it!!

      Delete